Lavapiés
Corrala tenements, alternative arts centres and food from half the world.
Lavapiés is a neighbourhood of steep streets, small squares and corrala tenements that keeps much of 19th-century working-class Madrid. Over recent decades it has become the city’s most diverse barrio: long-time residents live alongside communities from Bangladesh, Senegal, Morocco and China, plus artists and students.
It is not about big monuments but atmosphere: cultural centres, fringe theatres, terraces, galleries and very varied food. It is five minutes from the Reina Sofía museum and El Rastro, which makes it a good base for exploring the south of the centre.
What to see
The corrala on Calle Mesón de Paredes
Corralas are apartment blocks with open galleries around a courtyard, typical of old Madrid. The one at Mesón de Paredes and Sombrerete is the most photographed and is a listed monument.
Tabacalera
The former 18th-century tobacco factory on Glorieta de Embajadores. Part of it is an exhibition space run by the Ministry of Culture (La Principal), with free photography and art shows.
La Casa Encendida
A cultural centre on Ronda de Valencia with exhibitions, cinema, concerts and a pleasant roof terrace. Many activities are free or very cheap.
Plaza de Lavapiés and Teatro Valle-Inclán
The heart of the barrio. The Valle-Inclán theatre, home of the National Drama Centre, stands on the south side.
Cine Doré
On the edge of Antón Martín, the modernist cinema of the Spanish Film Library: classic films in original version at very low prices, plus a summer terrace.
El Rastro
Madrid’s famous open-air flea market sets up on Sunday and holiday mornings on Ribera de Curtidores and nearby streets, on the border with La Latina.
Detailed guides: El Rastro flea market
Where to eat and go for tapas
Calle Lavapiés and its surroundings are packed with Indian and Bangladeshi restaurants, and there is also Senegalese, Ethiopian, Moroccan, Turkish and Chinese food at fair prices. Tree-lined Calle Argumosa, with its terraces, is the classic spot for a beer in the sun.
Mercado de San Fernando on Calle Embajadores combines neighbourhood stalls with tapas counters and a bookshop that sells by weight; it is lively at weekends. For something traditional, look for the vermouth taverns and fried-fish bars still found in the side streets.
Well-known places are mentioned for information only; we have no commercial relationship with them. Businesses change, so check opening hours before you go.
Getting around
Metro Lavapiés (line 3) and Embajadores (line 3 and Cercanías). From Sol it is a 15-minute walk via Calle Atocha or Tirso de Molina; the Reina Sofía and Atocha station are 5–10 minutes downhill.
More detail in our metro and commuter train guide.
Tips
- It is a hilly barrio: wear comfortable shoes and allow extra time with a buggy or suitcase.
- At night it is lively and generally relaxed, but as in any central area keep an eye on your belongings in busy squares.
- In autumn there is usually Tapapiés, a tapas trail through the neighbourhood: check our events calendar for dates.
- If you go to El Rastro, arrive before 11 am: by midday the streets are packed.