Where to eat in Lavapiés

Lavapiés is the neighbourhood for eating well on a budget. Its diversity shows on the plate: Indian and Bangladeshi, Senegalese, Ethiopian, Moroccan and Chinese restaurants sit next to vermouth taverns and old-fashioned fried-fish bars.
The atmosphere is casual and young, with terraces on sloping streets and small squares.
What to order
- Curry and tandoori on Calle Lavapiés.
- Thieboudienne or yassa in the Senegalese restaurants.
- Vermouth and gildas in traditional taverns.
- Small bites at the counters of the Mercado de San Fernando.
Streets and places
Calle Lavapiés
A cluster of Indian restaurants with very cheap set menus.
Calle Argumosa
A tree-lined street of terraces, ideal for a beer in the sun or after the Reina Sofía.
Mercado de San Fernando
On Calle Embajadores: food counters, craft beer and produce; busiest on Saturdays.
Calle del Ave María and Plaza de Lavapiés
Small bars and bodegas for a drink before a show at the Teatro Valle-Inclán.
Well-known places are mentioned for information only; we have no commercial relationship with them. Businesses change, so check opening hours before you go.
Prices
Menú del día: €11–15. Dinner for two at an Indian or African restaurant: €25–40.
Tips
- Ask for recommendations in the Indian restaurants: the spice level can be adjusted on request.
- The Mercado de San Fernando’s hours vary by day; many counters open in the evening.
Exploring the area? Read our neighborhood guide to Lavapiés or the Madrid food guide.
