Where to eat in Barrio de las Letras

The Literary Quarter (Barrio de las Letras) is probably the best area in central Madrid for tapas without straying far from the museums. A handful of streets mix early-20th-century beer halls, sherry bars, vermouth taverns and modern cooking at reasonable prices.

The main axis is Calle Huertas and Plaza de Santa Ana, but the best spots are often on the side streets: Echegaray, Ventura de la Vega, Lope de Vega and Moratín.

What to order

• Vermouth on tap with olives or a gilda (pintxo of olive, anchovy and chilli).
• Grilled prawns or gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns).
• Oxtail and callos in the classic taverns.
• Croquetas and tortilla to share.
• A fino or manzanilla sherry in a sherry bar.

Streets and places

Plaza de Santa Ana

Sunny terraces and the Cervecería Alemana (1904), a historic haunt of writers and bullfighters. Comfortable, but you pay for the location.

Calle Echegaray

A mix of classic bars and young kitchens; home to La Venencia, the sherry bar where photos and tips are not allowed.

Calle Huertas

Casa Alberto, founded in 1827, with its pewter bar, vermouth and oxtail. After 10 pm the street turns into a nightlife strip.

Mercado de Antón Martín

Produce stalls and counters for casual eating, from sushi to Latin American food.

Well-known places are mentioned for information only; we have no commercial relationship with them. Businesses change, so check opening hours before you go.

Prices

Vermouth and a tapa: €3–5. Ración: €9–16. Tapas dinner for two: €35–60.

Tips

• Do a bar crawl: one drink and one tapa per bar, the way madrileños do.
• Before the Prado’s free hours (from 6 pm) is a good time for a vermouth and a light bite.
• Friday and Saturday nights get packed; on weekdays it is easier to find space at the bar.

Exploring the area? Read our neighborhood guide to Barrio de las Letras or the Madrid food guide.